One word: Lukla

Lukla is the gateway to the Khumbu/Everest region. Because of the remoteness of the area, there are only two ways to get here one is to fly or the other is to hike up.  The hike from the nearest road is through the village of Jiri and can take anywhere from 4 to 7 days hiking to get to Lukla.  The flight takes a little less than 30 minutes from Kathmandu and closer to 40 by helicopter which offers greater flexibility when the winds or clouds close Lukla which it often does.

Lukla airport

The runway is super short and its angled at 12 degrees to help slow planes when they land, and to help them gain speed in the take off.  The runway is only 450 yards long and there is really no option to go around as there is a mountain rising up at the top.

My plane getting loaded up.

In the morning if the weather is good there is a siren that goes off around 6:30 which signals the first plane taking off from Kathmandu and its imminent arrival.

This is also used to get animals and people off the runway also.

Once the plane lands, there is a quick taxi to the terminal building and they get the plane unloaded of people and gear and reloaded in about 5-10 minutes.  Very fast.  Then a quick taxi and the plane is bac enroute to Kathmandu.  There is always a push to keep things moving as the airport can shut down and sometimes for days on end if the weather really digs in.

Very luxurious interior of Lukla airport check in.

We had to wait a few hours but we we're finally airborne and made it to Kathmandu without incident.  

Thick air (albeit dirty) and warm temps greeted us.

A view of Kathmandu Valley from the plane.

Teahouses and homes along the Everest trail

 Every few hours one walks into / through a tiny village of maybe a few homes and a teahouse or two.  It is what makes reeking in this part of the Himalaya unique in that most of the big treks can be done with little to no tent camping.  

That said,  the Hughe one goes the more basic are the accommodations. Most teahouse have several sleeping rooms and almost all have a main dining area with the focal point being a cast iron stove.

 The center point of heat on cold nights 

In the lower areas (below the tree line) mostly wood is burned as fuel. 

Once you are above the tree line the tea houses collect yak dung and make pancakes out of them and then set them out to dry in the sun.  After a few days of sufficient drying, they are loaded into the stove along with a cup of kerosine and it burns for several hours.  Surprisingly there is not sent of yak dung at all.

Hundreds of yak "patties" drying in the sun.

A normal day on the trail has you getting to the tea house mid to late afternoon. Grab a hot drink and then put in an order for dinner.  The options are pretty basic. Mostly soups and noodles along with  rice dishes and vegetables.  They occasionally would have a sweet.  

Curry vegetables with rice 

Post dinner is usually occupied with congregating around the stove for heat and drying out equipment. The fire runs down around 8 and its best to be in your sleeping bag for the rest of the night.  No late nights in the mountains. 

Breakfast is between 6:30 and 7:30 and my go to is usually porridge (sticky outmeal or a few eggs and bread.  Lots of black tea to go with everything.

That is a day in a nutshell!

Interesting reactions to altitude

Altitutude can do some strange things to your body and can be deadly if not managed and controlled. 

That said, I always am reminded how my body reacts each time I go above 12,000ft.

Here are some of the fun things to expect or to at least be aware of when going high:  headaches, lower appetite, nauseous feelings, light headed, tingly finger, nose, chin, toes. Super weird dreams or bad sleep in general.  Waking up from a sound sleep feeling like you are totally out of air and gasping to catch up.  Sound fun right?

This time around I monitored my resting heartbeat at various elevations. Here are the results: (normal resting HR 48)

Kathmandu: 52 going to go with all the pollution in this one

Lukla (9,380ft) 62

Namche Bazaar (11,290) 75

Macherna (13,450) 80

Gokyo (15,350) 89

Gokyo Ri (17,000) 102 (not a true resting measurement 

Incredible how much harder the system has to work to maintain a healthy oxygen level at altitutude. 

It was also interesting to note that the readings on the way back down were consistently 5 to 10 beats lower based on better acclimatization. 

I guess it's sort of boring for most but I find it very interesting.

Lukla airport

A long way down

After maxing out on Gokyo Ri we scrambled, slipped and once landed on my backside in a very precarious spot due to the ice, slush, and melting snow.  It made for some very challenging footholds.  I was glad to have he assistance of a walking pole for a third point of contact and leverage.

We got down in time for a quick lunch,  quick pack and we were headed downhill. We spent a leisurely 3 days getting back to Namche.

The last view of the lakes and river in Gokyo Valley

 My guide Kewal.  Finally below the snowline but above the tree line.

As we descended we had sunshine, clouds, rain and snow.  A little bit of everything.

In fact the clouds decided to join us as we walked through them. 

Namche Bazaar is considered the Capitol  of the Sherpa people and it truly is an amazing little metropolis at 10,000 ft+

Spicing prayer wheels as we enter Namche.

Namche Bazaar.

We got to Namche mid day, three days after being at Gokyo and it was a huge thrill to have a few creature comforts namely hot(ish) water and the ability to actually get warm.  I also was able to a get something that closely resembled coffee!

As much fun as it is going up and suffering, it's an interesting switch when you are now headed down and see the twisted faces of those who are on their way up.  What was once thin air and hard to breath, is now the thick air compared to where you once were.  All things are relative I suppose.

I am constantly reminded that more often than not your body can accomplish much more than your mind might think. 

The body is capable of amazing endurance if the mind is strong enough to will it....

A cute little mountain kitty in Namche.

Tired and really, really,really, dirty.  I mean like really dirty.

Next...to Lukla

Gokyo RI (peak)

After spending the night in the village of Gokyo, we woke up and had a quick warm drink we were the trail by 6:45.  The sun was up but was obscured by the mountains so we were in the shadows for the first bit.  This wasn't necessarily a bad thing as the snow from days earlier that had been melting, was now refrozen and much easier for getting good footing.

The morning was picture perfect weather wise.  Not a cloud in the sky.  We were very blessed to have such a great day in light of previous storms that have wreaked havoc across the Himalaya this week.

What is unfortunate is that photos won't do justice to the views.

A lake at the base of Gokyo Ri

I felt great the whole way beyond the normal lack of oxygen, tingly fingers, shortness of breath, and the thought that my heart was about to beat out of my chest!  

We finally made it to the top and the views were 360 degrees incredible.  It's a pretty unique spot, in that you can view 4 of the world's 14 8,000+ meter peak.  (Choyo,  Everest, Makalu, and Lhotse)

Everest over my right shoulder and Makalu over my left. The tallest and fifth tallest mountains in the world.

My guide and great friend Kewal.  Happy he didn't have to carry me...

Omnipresent prayer flags at the top.

All in all it was an amazing day which I won't soon forget.   Probably the best mountain vistas I've ever experienced.

Slider with Mrs Ward-Elser class card and the infamous travel monkey.

The other side.

One last photo from the top. 

Many more when I get home when the connection is a bit more reliable.

 

Macherma to Gokyo

Wow wow wow.  How about one more wow.  The sun was shining bright and warm in a relative sense today as we hit the trail by around 7:30.  I slammed down some bread and fried eggs with some tea and we were off.  

Lots of sunscreen and buff coverage keep the sun at bay.  There wasn't a cloud in the sky all day which is a little unusual as most days usually cloud up mid to late afternoon.  Not today. 

We were in the snow all day today which mad for some slippery conditions in some areas but we used caution and went slowly. 

The whole way up you are surrounded by massive peaks 360 degrees.  The tallest of which is Choyo which is one of the 14 peaks in the world over 8,000 meters.  We had a view of it almost all day.  It is also similar to Everest in that one side is in Nepal and the other Tibet. 

I am convinced that the color blue was invented in the himalayan sky.  You honestly cannot put into words how truly spectacular it is.  

We passed three of the Gokyo lakes and are in the small village of Gokyo that has about 7 teahouses.  

Tomorrow morning we will get an early jump and summit Gokyo Ri.  Really looking forward to some amazing views.

-

Callie's class card with on of the tallest mountains Cho yo in the distance.

Slider too

Quick update

Safe and sound in the Gokyo valley.

Unusual heavy snow mixed with rapid melts have caused some tragic events in another area of Nepal, namely the Annapurna region and particularly the Thorung La pass.

After climbing Gokyo ri either today or tomorrow I was to go over a pass but have decided against and error on the side of safety.  I'll end up back tracking a bit but that's just fine.

So just wanted to get in front of the news and let everyone know that I'm safe and sound.

Derik

Namche to Porchse Chenga

This is where things start to really go up hill.  Namche is at about 10,500 feet and Porchse Chenga is at about 11,800.  However the trail doesn't go on a nice little steady incline.  It goes up a few hundred feet and then down a few hundred.  So it constantly feels like you are giving back hard fought altitutude.  I do know that all of the training I out in coming in is paying off so far.  The body feels really strong in the ups and the knees give a quick reminder who is boss on the downhills. 

About 20 minutes into this 7 hour day a drizzle turned into a steady rain.  So it goes something like this.  

Stop and put on rain gear and continue.  About 30 more minutes down the trail you are sweltering with 4 layers on.  Then you pull over,  peel off a layer and continue.  Then the rain stops and you take off all your rain gear and continue. Then you get chilled when you break and put on another layer.  Then it starts to rain again and it starts all over.  A fun little game of musical clothes.

Even with the rain the views of massive mountains and huge rock faces are incredible.  Ama Dablam (the mountain) is our constant guide today and is probably my favorite. 

After stopping for tea and a 45 minute downhill we ended up at our tea house to a dinner of spaghetti and tea.  The portions are truly massive and my guilt with leaving food uneaten is always there.  I guess I'll have to ask for the kids portion.

A typical tea house dining room

Porchse Chenga to Machermo

Well,  to say it rained last night would be a massive understatemen.  It poured for hours on end and the cooler temperatures brought the snow level down to where we slept last night.  Thunder and lighting,  the whole nine yards.  I was glad to be snug in my Northface sleeping bag.

Some not so great news.  A bad stomach had me making many a return trip to bathroom facilities and didn't make for a good nights sleep or much of an appetite the whole of today.  I quickly jumped into some meds and they seems to have helped but the appetite is still down.  Although some of that has to do with the fact that im currently at close tob14,000 feet.

So the altitude gained today was close to 2,000 which is a lot.  Also coupled with the fact that about half of it was through slush made it a by more challenging and wet 

That said the sun made return appearance and the views of peaks were everywhere.  Just incredible.

It was close to an 8 hour day today and it was amazing.

One of the interesting aspects of being up here is the people you meet.  Had breakfast today with a group of French and lunch with a couple from Germany. Lots of friendly people whom thankfully speak some English and to the French who are kind and say my accent is good!

So tomorrow is off to Gokyo with a night there and then up to the peak of Gokyo Ri the next morning if the weather cooperates.

😄

 The village of Machermo where I'm spending the night

Rest day in Namche Bazaar

A rest day in the mountains is a bit of a misnomer in that even though your not continuing to another camp, it is best practice to do hikes that take you higher so you can climb high and sleep low.

So that's exactly what we did today.  We went up about two hours and the equivalent of about 1500 feet of elevation.  Had some hydration and came right back down the way we came up. 

Had a slight brush with Himalayan climbing greatness also.  As we were going up, Russell Bryce was coming down.  He has lead expeditions of climbers up Everest and almost every others major peak in Nepal.  His company is named Himex. Pretty cool to see him live and in person.

It started to drizzle as we got back to our accommodations and really started to pour as the afternoon has progressed . Tomorrow's forecast isn't looking promising either so we'll keep our plan flexible and see what the day brings.

Nepal tip: yaks are not friendly.  One is warned early and often to always stay on the high side of the trail when you are passing them as they have been known
to use their horns to knock people off.

There are also two different types of yak, a long haired and shorter hair.  The long haired are used primarily for moving good from above 10,000 feet to 18 or 19,000 feet where they can withstand the colder temps much better.

Short hair yak with big horns

Long hair yak

Phakdang to Namche Bazaar

The UIt was up at 6:30 to a breakfast of porridge, toast and fried eggs,  and I never eat eggs...hmmm.

On the trail at 7:15 and to a total altitude gain of about 1,000 meters and finishing at 10,500 feet.

Honestly, as far as below the tree line mountain scenery goes,  this stretch of trail is beyond compare to anything I've ever experienced. Photos don't have a chance of doing it justice.  It is also the first day where you can catch a glimpse of Everest.

Here is Everest in all her 29,035 feet glory

From mountain streams to waterfalls and glacial rivers, this stretch just keeps on delivering one stunning view after another.

This bridge was about 400 feet over the river.  Not for the feint of heart as it really starts bouncing around as you get near the center.

That bridge in the foreground (the high one) is the one we would soon cross.

Finally, at around 2:30 we got to Namche which is the Main Sherpa town on the mountain.  Remember that everything you see in the picture below came up at least a 2 day walk on the back of a mule, yak or porter.

This load is probably close to 100 pounds and will net the porter about $3 for 2 days work.  Kids stay in school.

So the next two nights will be in Namche to let the bodies chemistry catch up to the altitude.  

I'm feeling great but still trying to adjust to the 11 hour time change.  

Up to the Mountains

It seems like it would be pretty simple given this is Nepal and everything, but the fact of the matter is that nothing is really simple in Nepal.

Here is how the morning went:

6:00am- wake up final packing.

6:30am head down and weigh bag, and put the other in storage.

6:31 take "extras" out of bag as it was 1kilo over weight.  Goodbye big luscious bag of trail mix, till we meet again.

6:45-7:30 45 minutes to go about 4 miles.  The streets (in the loosest sense of the word) here make Mario cart seem reasonable.

7:30 run the gauntlet of people wanting to "help"you with your bags to get from the parking lot to the domestic building entrance.

The domestic departure entrance...

So then line up and put your bag into an X-ray machine and the line up in a male or female line and go through a metal detector which I can almost guarantee either wasn't plugged in or just didn't work.  All the while there are people just walking around the side of the machine.  Ok!?!

Also the first time I've ever been asked to step on a scale at an airport before.  81kilos but I think the boots made me look fat.

8:00 in the checkin area

My guide Kewal and I then find out that the plane  we are supposed to be on is having mechanical issues and won't be flying at 8:30.  Then they tell us they are bringing another plane in from a different part of the country but it won't be there till 10:00.

10:30. Still no plane 

11:30 plane is here!  Hurry up and get patted down and then on to a bus that drives you to the plane. 

11:50. Haven't moved on the bus yet

12:15. We're moving and take the 10 minute ride to the twin otter bag of bolts that is the workhorse of this route from Kathmandu to Lukla because of it's short landing distance. 

12:45 staring at plane from bus.  Lots of confusion.

1:00 all bags get loaded on the plane, however we just sit in the hot bus.

1:30 worker comes on bus and tells us that the mountain airport Lukla is closed because of winds.  Wows that's awesome,

1:44 back to terminal and this is where the magic of my guide shines.  We get off the bus and run over to the airlines counter and after a few minutes of animated discourse he hands me a ticket and said to me " follow me, we've got the last two seats on a helicopter leaving in 10 minutes! ". No clue how that just happened but it did, and it was awesome. A first for me and what a place  to fly through.

Here's it is before we boarded.  They had to load extra water jugs for ballast to even out the load.

Kathmandu valley from the heli.

It also turned out our pilot was from Texas.  He said there aren't too many better places in the world to get the kind of experience you get than in Nepal.

By 2:30 we were on the ground in Lukla on a trip that blew me away and not nearly as nerve wracking as he plane ride is.

So we had a quick bite and then headed down the trail.  Lukla is at about 9,500 feet and the place we spent the night (phakdang) is actually around 8,900 feet.

All in all a pretty crazy day anywhere else in the world, but in Nepal they just call it Saturday😄

Tomorrow off to the Sherpa Capitol of Namche Bazaar.